The camping festival in Ireland is in decline. Funding pressures, decreasing disposable income and a glut of summer shows by the big promoters have seen festival after festival disappear. Thankfully Limavady’s Stendhal continues to fight the good fight and despite some well documented challenges, are still in the fight.
As the festival marked its 16th edition (a remarkable achievement in itself), we journeyed to Ballymully Cottage form to soak in the sights and sounds that make it such an important bastion in the Irish music scene.
Words on Thursday and Friday by Will Mac Aoidh. Words on Saturday by Robert Brown. Photographs by Fergus Stewart.
Thursday
Welcome to Stendhal! My partner and I went for our second-ever trip to the farm and, with rain clouds on the horizon, approached Limavady with prophetic visions of a drenching. Thursday’s weather was fine though, proving us the fools, and we got ourselves set up and tented without much fuss.
Facilities were slowly coming to life at this point, so we took a stroll to catch the Beat ‘n’ Drum samba band on the Henry McCullough stage. Tonnes of fun, the gang brought Latin rhythms to the songs you already know and love – I thought their version of Linger was a highlight.
We couldn’t catch all of it – We took a trip to the BBC Radio Ulster tent where Caoimhe Nì Chathail and Stephen McCauley were holding down the fort from evening ‘til night, like champions. Much later in the evening, I saw them both DJ’ing for the kid’s silent disco. I’d love to describe the set they played but, as mentioned – t’was silent.
There was enough happening after that that we found ourselves in something of a loss. We had snuck into the secret garden behind the Henry McCullough stage for a chunk of D:REAM’s set but didn’t stay too long. We were too hungry to enjoy ourselves at that stage and knew that, once we got food, things could only get better. Jokes aside, D:REAM can still hold a crowd in the palm of their hands. The slopes of the Henry McCullough were heaving, even on that quieter first night, practically humming with electricity.
Friday
Next morning, I remembered why I don’t camp often. My body, twisted up like a pretzel, was both freezing cold and cooking alive in a very cheap sleeping bag. I gasped to life, possibly seconds away from total desiccation, and started the day.
While we spent a good chunk of the day just having a wander, we first sat down for a proper listen to Ciaran Lavery, who played a special, stripped back set on the Henry McCullough. Accompanying him were Aoibha and Sarah McCreedy, two exceptional songwriters and musicians in their own right – When Ciaran Lavery gets the band back together, he does so with aplomb. This trio provided the perfect opportunity for Aoibha and Ciaran’s recent collaboration single, ‘Albatross’. It’s an easy weekend highlight for me: that song seemed to soar in the air above the stage, transporting all present to somewhere far away.
From there, we wandered from place to place seeing what would grab us. In the Wooly Woodlands, we caught the start of Klyda’s set – their goth-rock stylings were raucous, fun and met with an equally-met crowd. Very different was Matt Benson on the Henry McCullough, whose wizardry with loop pedals and trombone fixed us in place for a while. Matt’s earnest storyteller approach to funk was charming and yet another festival highlight for me.
Misty rain became a downpour pretty quickly and an executive decision was made to get out of dodge and travel home. Some call it cowardice, we called it a “tactical retreat”. Before we left though, I’m so glad we caught Etain’s set. I’ve seen her perform in Belfast previously, but this stripped-back set with just accompanying fiddle felt like such a hidden gem in the Wooly Woodlands.
With that, we made our escape. It was an extremely Thirty Years Old decision admittedly, one that was mostly informed by the exciting angle my neck was bent at when I woke up. Still, even with only two days under our belt, Stendhal proved itself to us as such a beacon for the exceptional musical talent of this island – long may it continue.
Saturday
Work commitments meant that my Stendhal experience was limited to the Saturday this year. The negatives of missing out on two days of great music is slightly softened by the fact we can enjoy the day without the general fatigue that comes with several days of sleeping in a tent.
Naturally the rain marks our arrival at Ballymully Cottage but thankfully we find shelter with Junior Johnston. Tucked away in a new area of the woods, his set mixes covers of Billie Eilish and Proclaimers with original material. A serene opening to our adventure but ‘The Last Beekeeper’ and ‘Mayfly Blues’ leave a marked impression as we venture back out into the site.
The MacIvor’s stage was incredible last year and Taylor Lally is doing her best to ensure that it is repeated in 2026. With a slot with her band penciled in for later in the day, this performances finds her with just an electric guitar for company. Her honest songwriting combined with the odd foot stomp give ‘Breathe and ‘Dry White Wine’ a moody but engaging feel.
Co Armagh’s Niamh Noade is next on the agenda. The young artist finished runner up in The Voice Kids UK and was a semi-finalist on Britain’s Got Talent and it is clear to see why. A unique proposition with the use of her harp to add a contemporary feel to her celtic infused sound. There are a few covers thrown in, notably the second rendition of ‘What Was I Made For?’ but it is the emotional ‘Halcyon’ that sets her apart.
Eric Bell opens up his slot on the Henry McCullough stage with “Good afternoon and welcome to the Antiques Roadshow.” That draws more than a few laughs but ultimately it does Bell and his bandmates a disservice. The Eric Bell Trio deliver a rip roaring set with & as you’d expect from the founding member of Thin Lizzy the guitar riffs are electric. We even get a taste of the legendary band with the first real standout moment of the day with a feel good rendition of ‘Whiskey in the Jar’.
A short trip over to Woolley Woodland finds a perfect dose of swaggering indie rock in the form of Dylan Bradley & the Heat. The former Parker front man and his new band are in terrific form with ‘Susana’ and ‘Makes Me Feel Good’ proving to be festival favourites.
Limerick’s Dylan Flynn and the Dead Poets take to the main stage to a cult following. ‘I Love You (But You’re Breaking My Heart)’ and ‘Running Away’ are perfect examples of their driving indie rock anthems. Their sound evokes The War On Drugs crossed with Springsteen; songs full of heart and energy that inspire and enchant the watching masses.
Thirteen years on from her last appearance at Stendhal, it is a joy to see Alana Henderson back at the festival. Joined by Rachael Boyd and George Sloan, her sad songs are a perfect tonic to the rain. From old favourites ‘Wax and Wane’ with its haunting cello to the more recent ‘Once in a House on Fire’, it is a stellar set. The real highlight though comes from a special rendition of ‘On Board’ with a guest appearance from Dani Larkin.
The special guest at the Craic Inn stage turns out to be another set from Niamh Noade so we circle back to the main stage for a taste of Robert Arkins and the Commitments. The soul train is in full flow as the nine piece band run through all the hits from the seminal film along with some other classics from the soul era. With a rotating cast of vocalists, it is a feel good set for the ages. If there is ever a place to hear ‘Mustang Sally’, it’s definitely in the fields surrounded by other music lovers.
After a short sustenance break, our journey takes us to the big tent for the first time to catch Fya Fox. Due to a brief hiatus, it has been a while since she has performed live but she hasn’t missed a step. Joined simply by a guitarist, it is a stripped back set that lets her beautiful vocals and lyrical prowess shine through. ‘Sweet Goodbye’ and ‘Oversized Denim Jacket’ delight in this format but we look forward to hearing the studio recording of new song ‘My Loves’ (written with Kris Platt).
The rain continues to fall but that doesn’t prevent Sophie French from delivering one of the sets of the day. The best bands have chemistry and it is clear that French’s have that in abundance and are here to have a good time. With free ponchos being handed out, there is no shortage of people braving the rain for a dance. Whether it is ‘Little Bird’ or the unreleased ‘Risk Worth Taking’, French has the charisma and vocal delivery to command the stage. Our only complaint is that it feels like a booking oversight to have the architect of ‘Friday Feels’ play it on the Saturday.
Liverpudlian’s Cast arrive to a busy Karma Valley and the band deliver on their mandate for Britpop goodness. Any good festival headliner has a collection of hits and between ‘Fine Time’ and ‘Live Dream’, the crowd get their opportunity to sing-a-long. Naturally the biggest reaction comes for ‘Walk Away’ which still resonates nearly 30 years on from its release.
With our Britpop itch scratched, we raced back up to the big tent for the boisterous alt pop of Beauty Sleep. Joined by George Sloan on drums (his second gig of the day), the Derry duo leave nothing on the table with a high energy performance. ‘You (You’re All I Wanted)’ is a sweet dose of sugary pop, ‘Big Sky’ has huge energy but ‘The Dark’ still carries a majesty that makes it impossible to look past.
Back at the Henry McCullough stage, Susi Pagel is beset by some unfortunate technical difficulties. Thankfully guitarist Jack McGarry saves the day and we are off at a frenetic pace. Often portrayed as a pop princess, there appears to be little in the way of pop on show with perhaps the exception being the reworked version of ‘Night Light’. The actual sound has much more in common with rock and metal with its dark undertones spilling through on ‘Scream’ and ‘Stay This Way’ which has some truly pulverising drums. Riveting nonetheless.
With our legs tiring, we revisit Woolly Woodland for one final set before hitting the road for home. It is a no brainer as Polar Bolero are headlining and it feels like most of today’s attendees are squeezed into the trees trying to catch a glimpse. Striking it lucky I manage to grab a raised seat from where I can just about see the band.
The festival regulars know the songs by now with ‘Soar’ and ‘The Bride’ are repeated back word for word. The new material doesn’t dim the enthusiasm of the crowd either with ‘In Spite of It All’ and ‘the Cavalry’ showing there is plenty more to come from them. There is one last treat as Cahir and Pearse lead us in a hearty rendition of ‘All You Need Is Love’.
There is no doubt that Polar Bolero need to be on the main stage next year as they’ve consistently packed out the smaller stages every time they’ve played and their reputation continues to grow.
Sixteen years on from its first iteration Stendhal Festival continues to deliver a wonderful showcase of musical talent grounded in community spirit. It isn’t one artist that makes the experience so special but a culmination of moments and encounters across an entire weekend. Hopefully we will be back in Ballymully Cottage Farm again next year.
